GOT LEGS

“Oh man, this is so good.”

---

During the VinNatur wine fair last weekend, I organised a masterclass with Samuel Cogliati on the diversity of Alsace.

As you may already know, Alsace is the region in France where I return to most often (sometimes even twice or three times a year) and where the natural wine scene really excites me.

Samuel (of Possibilia Editore) would talk about the theory and I’d choose and serve the wines. We decided upon 6 rieslings from 6 different terroirs.

Yann’s “Riesling sur schistes Rabbari” 2024 was the second wine in the line-up. Initially, it was a little reduced but within a minute or two, it opened up beautifully. At the end of the tasting, when I asked for a show of hands (not the most precise or scientific method, I know) I believe the highest number voted this as their favourite wine of the tasting.

---

Back in 2017, I wrote about another of Yann’s wines: their Wiebelsberg 2012.

Anna & André Durrmann Grand Cru Wiebelsberg 2012

---

I’m tasting the Rabbari 2024 today, three full days later, and with less than a quarter left in the bottle.

ANNA, ANDRE ET YANN DURRMANN (Alsace) “Rabbari” 2024 riesling sur schistes – cuvée nature, Vin d’Alsace AOC 11.2% ABV

Very slightly cloudy; it feels and smells initially like grown-up lemonade.

Oh my gosh, even after 3 days, it smells delicious. Intense. White pepper notes on the nose, floral (jasmine and box flowers), pure, straight, driven…

There’s high acid and flinty taste giving a real back-bone. This is a stunning wine. So linear. So long. I love it.

Price: €€ – a weekend wine

Rating: **** – something special

Tasted: 15th April 2026

---